Flats in Anjos
Anjos is the part of the city centre where rents still make sense and dinner at home costs five euros if you cook. The parish runs along the top of Avenida Almirante Reis, between Intendente and Arroios, and the green metro line — Anjos station sits right on the avenue — gives you a direct shot to Baixa-Chiado in seven minutes and to Alameda in three.
The neighbourhood is multicultural in a real, lived-in way rather than a Lonely Planet way. Bangladeshi grocers, Goan restaurants, Cape Verdean kitchens, Chinese supermarkets — a Saturday shop on Rua do Benformoso costs about a third of what the same shop costs in Príncipe Real. Pingo Doce on Almirante Reis covers the Western basics. For coffee: Café da Garagem (when the Teatro Taborda café is open), Hello, Kristof a short walk down towards Olarias, and Copenhagen Coffee Lab on Rua Nova da Piedade if you walk thirty minutes for a flat white.
Anjos punches above its weight on food. Casa do Brasil, the Bangladeshi places along Rua do Benformoso, the late-night kebabs, the Goan fish curry at Cantinho da Paz a short walk south. Largo do Intendente — the redone square with Casa Independente — is the parish's evening living room when it's warm.
The parish is almost flat at the avenue level, then climbs sharply east towards Penha de França — useful to know when picking a flat. Walking is genuinely viable: Alameda is twelve minutes on foot, Martim Moniz is fifteen, Príncipe Real is twenty-five.
This is the cheaper end of our band — figure €295 to €500 for most rooms, with the Almirante Reis-facing flats slightly higher and the side-street rooms cheaper. IST Alameda is twelve minutes door-to-door by metro; ISCTE and Cidade Universitária are eighteen.
Best fit: budget-conscious students, food enthusiasts, anyone who'd rather walk through three cultures on the way to the metro than past three souvenir shops.
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